this
It seems to be a problem that everyone knows well.
The so-called ”
Wide-brimmed hat
It is also a general term, referring to the various gentlemen’s hats that we are more familiar with and often appear in street shoots or movies. (However, the fisherman’s hat is also wide-brimmed, let’s not talk about it today)
Whether spring, summer, autumn or winter, when it comes to hats, the first thing that comes to mind is all kinds of baseball caps. If you want to ask why you shouldn’t wear a wide-brimmed top hat. Many people will answer,
Our facial features are not three-dimensional enough for Europeans and Americans, and they are very strange and not good-looking to wear.
But is that really the case?
Japan, our fellow yellow neighbors, has a very rich topper culture. The original top hat originated in England, but since the 20th century, the Japanese have continued to promote its development, and CA4LA, Override, H.W.DOG & CO. and other famous hat brands have been born.
▲ H.W.DOG & CO., a famous Japanese retro hat ornament brand, has a significant logo design with the ticket paper label on the brim
It is worth mentioning here that data shows that about 90% of the world’s hat products are now produced in our country, but there is no real brand that can be won in China, and the hat decoration culture is also quite shallow. This is very unwilling for us, who are big hat producers.
Under the changes of the Japanese, top hats are no longer required to be worn on important occasions such as banquets and theaters, and have become a necessary “stylish” weapon in the daily life of gentleman-type men. Aren’t the Japanese afraid of wearing ugly?
Before answering this question, Ye Zi felt the need to popularize various gentlemen’s top hats.
Britain is the origin of the top hat, but we are most familiar with it
Fedora
However, it was invented and patented by the Italian brand Borsaino. Originally, the term “wide-brimmed hat” was called from Fedora, which added creases and two grooves in front of the crown and rim, originally to make it easier for the wearer to remove the hat. Nowadays, this design brings a sense of dexterity to the originally more formal top hat, and it seems less rigid.
The second is
Trilby
, its brim is relatively short, also known as “short-brimmed hat”. In addition to being short, unlike Fedora’s flat and wide brim, the Trilby is slightly cocked at the back. There will also be grooves in the crown, but the degree will not be so obvious, and overall it is not suitable for people with large faces.
Bowler hat
Derby
It was born earlier than Fedora and was also its birth prototype. It was originally a top hat worn by gentlemen at the British Jockey Club. But perhaps we are more familiar with its identity as a Chaplin’s favorite, the round crown has a very cute playful feel, the texture is relatively hard, there are no grooves, and the brim on both sides is slightly upturned.
It’s called like the following
Pork Pie Hat
, translated as flat hat. Although the top is flat from the side, there is a slight bulge in the middle, but usually no higher than the entire edge. Because it looks very much like Pork Pie (pork pie) in the UK from above, it is named.
Finally, there is the woven cap
Straw Hat
, also called the straw hat. It is not a gentleman’s hat in the traditional sense, but is named after the craftsmanship or material. In layman’s terms, it is a hat woven with blades of grass, which can be woven into any of the above Fedora, Derby and so on.
And the most famous straw hat in the world is no stranger to everyone
Panama hat
（Panama Hat）。 But in fact, this hat is made from Ecuadorian toquera grass leaves. Panama Canal workers at the time liked this hat very much. At the opening ceremony of the canal, former U.S. President Roosevelt, who delivered the speech, called the hat “slip of the tongue” given to him by the workers as a Panama hat, which was then circulated.
Of course, if you want to break it down further, there are more than the above hats. But the more classic, or the ones we usually come into contact with, are the above.
They’re as exotic as baseball caps, so why is their popularity so distinct?
First of all, Ye Zi felt
They do not have a good “foundation”
。 In China, the so-called gentleman’s culture is still relatively “virtual”, except for suits, the public knows little about other gentleman’s items.
In contrast, baseball caps developed with the sport of baseball and have a relatively solid foundation. Even from a worldwide perspective, baseball caps are gentlemen’s hats with wide brims. And baseball caps entered the country as early as the 19th century, along with baseball, and fewer Chinese people have worn top hats, making this contrast particularly obvious.
secondly
Most of our people stress “convenienceism.”
。 Gentlemen’s top hat has more strict requirements for the head shape, and there are even many top hat custom stores abroad, which need to be carefully selected, unlike baseball caps with elastic adjustments, which can be enlarged and reduced at any time, which saves a lot of effort.
And then there is
The attributes that come with the two hats are different
。
Just as we have been thinking for a long time that suits are “old-fashioned” and only worn by people who are not interesting, many times we have this prejudice against top hats, thinking that they are too serious. And baseball caps have always had a sporty, sunny feeling, especially after many rappers and hipsters “bring goods”, giving it a cool and street label, which naturally makes many young people love it and are more willing to choose it.
As for some of the population: our facial features are not three-dimensional enough and are not suitable for wearing. Ye Zi felt that such a “reason” was very one-sided.
For example, the famous Japanese fashion icon
History of the small wooden base
It is a loyal fan of all kinds of wide-brimmed top hats and straw hats. Although his height and facial features are not dominant, these hats are quite eye-catching and have become his iconic items.
It can be said that he has a hat and no hat, not only his face temperament, but also the expression and impact of the look on his body, which is a grade worse.
Therefore, the top hat should not still be too “regular” hat, it can also be flexible and diverse in wearing, becoming an interesting finishing touch on us. Especially in summer, it has better shade and is easier to stand out from the crowd of baseball cap looks.
However, this is a very tricky problem for us who rarely try, how to wear it well.
How to handle a wide-brimmed hat?
First of all, just like the clothes on our bodies, choosing the right fit is the most crucial step.
If you want to choose a wide-brimmed top hat that suits your head, the most important thing is to look at its crown. In simple terms,
A towering crown should not be smaller than your head, and the section should be as wide as your face, or slightly larger than your face
, from top to bottom, it presents a “head shape” from large to small.
Many people say that people with large faces are not suitable for wearing top hats, in fact, the crown is not chosen correctly. Like the following, the crown is obviously smaller than the head, although there is no difference from afar, but up close, it will appear that the face is large and the hat is small.
Leaf recommends trying it for the first time, or for men with large faces and round faces, it is better to choose Fedora with wide brimmies. Compared with other styles, the flat brim and wide eaves, it modifies the face shape more obviously, especially in dark colors or white straw hats, and the difficulty is not as great as others.
The most suitable for summer is the lightweight and breathable straw hat. However, in terms of collocation, it should be noted that because the wide-brimmed hat is very “oppressive” on the head, so this time
The hem of the dress should not be too long
, otherwise it appears that the legs are particularly short, and such proportions lack beauty.
The most common and practical thing is to tuck the hem of the clothes, whether it is paired with jeans or trousers, the overall feeling makes people look like the body is particularly short and the legs are particularly long. And the wide-brimmed hat on the head will also make such an ordinary look appear layered.
The hat with a cut and destruction design on the brim can add style to your casual look.
Another advantage of such a simple wide-brimmed hat is that it can suppress some bright and active printed tops very well. Let the conspicuous print be used as an embellishment in the middle, full of elegance, and the content level of Look has become rich.
Many people also feel that in addition to straw hats, gentlemen’s top hats of other materials are not suitable for wearing in hot summers.
In fact, even a gentleman’s hat made of wool or wool is not as wrapped as a canvas baseball cap. Moreover, if it is not cotton canvas, its breathability is not as good as wool.
And the texture of the orthodox gentleman’s top hat is obviously superior to the straw hat, for Look, who lacks thick clothing in summer, adding a wool top hat is the best choice for urban men who pursue texture.
Even if it is a simple T-shirt top, the blessing of a top hat can make the whole body glow with a sense of luxury that is rare in summer. With ripped jeans and a pair of Chelsea underneaths, who’s to say the top hat doesn’t have street flavor?
Similarly, when wearing shorts in summer, you can also wear a “thick” top hat. It is recommended that shorts choose a style with a cut edge design like the model below, which can well transfer the attention of others from the high-profile top hat on the head to the legs. And if you put on a pair of leather shoes, the whole body texture will undoubtedly be more obvious.
This article was first published from the public number:
TOPMEN menswear.com
（ID: topmencomcn）