“History of History: Our Dressed Story”, [British] Lucy Adinton, Xiong Jiashu translated, Chongqing University Press, August 2021.
What do we wear in bed -or nothing -can show our concept of sex and privacy. There are many styles of pajamas, from simple and simple to luxurious nakedness (the concept of sexy pajamas is relatively new). Before the middle of the 20th century, the wearer would carefully stack it after taking off his pajamas and pajamas, and stored it into a satin pocket with his own name abbreviation. In the past, people really cherished their clothes. After taking off their daily clothes before going to bed, they would cover their clothes all night with a piece of cloth.
There are a lot of things that people do on the bed. When they are sick or lazy to rest or die, they will lie on the bed. The rolling sheets are also on the bed. Of course, sleeping must be on the bed. The bed is linked to our most relaxed life clips. Therefore, the pajamas wearing on the bed naturally also become a type of clothing that is at least restricted by morality, culture and social etiquette. Before the 16th century, people fond of sleeping naked. But for those who are not used to sleeping naked, they can put on pajamas and robes. These robes are actually wide underwear worn in the coat during the day. Of course, the nobility and rich people’s robes are relatively luxurious, but the disadvantages are also obvious -this kind of clothes can easily provoke erosion. In order to prevent fleas and worms, people began to stuff the camphor pills in the robe.
In June 1837, the young Princess Victoria learned that she was about to be crowned as the Queen.
The concept of pajamas was born in the 19th century. During this period, people began to make clothes specializing in white cotton, silk and linen cloth at home for the first time. The men’s robe is also white, growing to the calf; the lady’s robe is more loose and inflated, from the neck to her knees. These robes do not reduce the sexy charm of the wearer, nor will it affect their rolling sheets. After a century of development, the robe has evolved more delicately, and many embroidery, pleats and lotus leaves have been added to the robe. There are also robes in clothing stores and department stores, but they are usually attributed to the bride’s dowry category. This wide white robe carries people’s expectations for the wedding night. Although there is no lack of ribbon and lace decoration on the robe, it is still very simple in general.
It wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that the concept of sexy underwear was gradually accepted by the middle class that people began to buy a close -up silk robe with close -up designs. In addition to the white pajamas, gray and yellow gowns also appeared on the market. Women who love the Edward era can also be ordered from Harold Department Store to make a robe made by Indian tulle. However, the more common robes are still flavored or high cashmere, and even the low prices can afford the servants. In the summer of 1914, pajamas have begun to mass production, with ruffled edges, mechanical embroidery and lace decoration full of such new clothing.
The panic fugitives often escape in pajamas
To study the robes, we have a variety of historical records, such as painting works, lists of laundry, physical inventory, and promotional lists of department stores. However, it is necessary to list more direct evidence that may be suspected of infringing on the privacy of some people, or unveiling their scars -when encountering fires, earthquakes, maritime, and air strikes, panic -fleeing people tend to escape in pajamas. Some people also designed emergency pajamas. For the first time, pajamas evolved due to unexpected disasters in March 1750. At that time, a series of earthquakes occurred in London. People needed to flee at any time, so wearing the corresponding “earthquake robe” at night became an inevitable option. But unfortunately, there is no information on the specific style of this earthquake robe.
Most people who encounter accidents and disasters at night do not have time to wear clothes. Such accidents will also cause the affected people to be in a dilemma -whether to maintain dignity, to escape neatly, or try to save time and wear pajamas to escape. This is really not an easy choice. In 1912, the Titanic ’s shipwreck, the oral records of the person experienced showed that the people who escaped the people were dressed. Some ladies put the fur coat outside the robe. robe. A pro -calendar even called the chaotic scene like “but hell in Ding pen.” When the Titanic lights were gradually hidden in the night, the hull was completely sinking into the Atlantic Ocean, and one of the most famous escape on the lifeboat, Lucis, told her maid Frankater:
“It’s a pity, you lost the beautiful pajamas.” Hearing this, the sailor on a lifeboat couldn’t help but respond: “Don’t forget, you should be grateful to the lifeboat.”
The “conjoined clothes” during the “World War I” -Sewed paper samples sold in 1918.
Three years after this tragedy, Europe was fell into a frequent air strike of “World War I”. In this round of war, pajamas have also been adjusted accordingly.
During the frequent patronization of London in Ziberlin airship, the magazine “Tatler” began to recommend one -type pajamas to citizens. This “conjoined clothes” pajamas can cover the workers’ arms and legs. Even if the ladies were awakened by the air alarm in the middle of the night, they would not look embarrassed to run to the street. In addition to this kind of pajamas, citizens have another choice, that is, wearing pajamas. In the same year, the editor of the “Patrician” magazine began to introduce the new pajamas jacket set to the public, which is a set of pretty avant -garde black double sailor -style pajamas. The editor is still frank in the article: “Honestly, I think the airship attack is also a good thing, because I have reason to wear my real silk pajamas, but I don’t want anyone Later, I also bought a set of pale yellow pajamas with fur border. She described: “This pajamas are very beautiful, but it is not very warm. For the fabrics with roses, I cannot resist; sewing on my body sewing; The line is a pale yellow color like spring flowers. The collar is made of white cotton cloth, and the cuffs are covered with lace. “
This set of pajamas is undoubtedly gorgeous, but when wearers want to hide under the bombing, or squeeze into the tunnel in chaos, it is useless. When the situation of the war further deteriorated, most of the rational ladies finally overcome the gap between pajamas that originally belonged to men, and began to sleep in pajamas made of flaw -made pajamas. For women who like more comfortable pajamas, they can also wear wool knitted pajamas vests.
In modern times, many men replaced pajamas with T -shirts
Compared to the slow acceptance of pajamas, men in 1915 put on two pieces of pants pajamas. This kind of clothing was transmitted from India and Persia to Western Europe in the 19th century. The word pyjama (Pyjama) originally meant pants in Indian language. In many countries in Asia and the Middle East, such loose pants are suitable daily clothes for men and women. Since the 1880s, European men began to wear this style of pants to sleep, or wearing it with loose jackets during the day. Cotton, flavors and silk pajamas are common. Buyers with different economic strength can choose the quality of pajamas they can bear. These pajamas look quite plain, and the fabrics are mostly decorated with stripes and spiral patterns. In the early 1897, when Queen Victoria was ascended to the 50th anniversary, the “Sewing and Cutting” magazine predicted that “the doom of pajamas and shirts” was coming. Amazing and fearful. “
Classic flames, pants.
For the masses behind the “World War I”, their pajamas choices can be described as a variety of -old -fashioned flavors, anti -shrinking pajamas, flavor pajamas suits, silk or tav Silk pajamas suit, even pajamas with cotton -wool blended fabrics!
For traditional and conservative men, the flaw -like robe is still the best choice, so on the shopping directory of department stores in 1916, we can still see the advertisement of the robe- “Gentleman’s flames. There are two types of pajamas, single seams and double seams, warm, comfortable and durable. “The printing of men’s pajamas has evolved more gorgeous before the war. Various bright pink, purple and bright blue pajamas are very popular. In the 1930s, the popular colors became brown -red, brown, and dark green stripes. Today’s pajamas also use this type of design. During the youth commotion in the 1960s and the “Love and Peace Movement”, men’s pajamas were not affected by culture, and they were still comfortable, implicit and durable.
Just in modern times, many men replaced pajamas with T -shirts. Compared to the low -key post -war pajamas, women’s pajamas have ushered in a gorgeous evolution. In the 1920s, the women’s pajamas set up a shareholder style, and the colors were based on the tempting pink, pale purple and apple green. The following is a round of fashion to customize pajamas with peach -colored silk or lemon yellow real silk. People who like gorgeous style can also be set to the bright red or pure Cossac -style pajamas. As a novel suit, the ladies of Bohemia and the high society have also begun to treat pajamas as a casual dress worn by informal occasions. While wearing pajamas, they also wear silk headscarves, cigarettes, high -heeled slippers embroidered, and pearl chains on their necks -in the 1930s, rich people were like this in their spare time. Available. Silk pajamas are also deeply influenced by decorative art style. The pajamas made by artificial elegant fabrics are in line with the aesthetics of modern people, so they quickly become a substitute for real silk pajamas, so that those users who are relatively economical can also join the army pursuing the fashion of pajamas. The artificial silk, also known as art silk, is a synthetic fabric born before the “World War I”. It is very suitable for making pajamas or pajamas. Cosetz, which is mainly used for artificial silk products, has also been at the forefront of fabric innovation. They have produced artificial silk fabrics and sold finished products. Cotaurz has also launched its own robe products in a timely manner, registered with stylish brands Lunisca and Celanese, and invested a lot of funds in researching new fiber and products. Their artificial silk pajamas attracted a lot of consumers to go Subject stores.
In the 1920s, the simple and generous cotton robe.
This is a new world led by pajamas, although this new world is not as described in the anti -Utopia novel “Bravenewword” published in 1932 in 1932. In the novel, the heroine Leninna Crowe, the heroine represented by sexual liberation, wore a pink sexy pajamas lying on the bed. The opening of this pajamas was a long zipper, which was very sci -fi. However, the zipper clothing in the novel is still too advanced for women in reality. In comparison, it is still the 1934 movie “ITHAPPENDONIGHT”. It is more popular with ordinary people -Kohn is wearing a men’s pajamas set from the actor Clark Gebo, which looks more charming and touching.
The popularity of sexy pajamas reflects the improvement of women’s social status in the 1930s and the liberation of sexual awareness. Pajamas and robes have also become one of the choices of Christmas gifts, and can also increase the sales of stores during holidays.
Wearing the latest pajamas to go to the theater to watch the show
The oblique pajamas of the 1930s have been very different from the previous styles. The designs of the half -breast exposed and exquisite lace decoration are the characteristics of pajamas during this period. The new -style pajamas appear to be exposed a lot, and even the skirts that are worn by young European people when they go to the ballroom. Soon, the world fell into the war of “World War II” again, and fashion was affected, but it was not until this time that women in the distant rural areas first came into contact with new sexy pajamas.
A Polish girl recalled that during the “World War II”, girls in their hometown towns wore the latest pajamas to go to the theater to watch the drama. At that time, under the control of the Red Army of the Soviet Union, the Polish town was facing this kind of situation of wearing pajamas. There are no calls in those places, and even the roads have never seen. As soon as they saw such lace off -shoulder clothes, they thought it was a popular dress in Paris, Berlin and Budapest. “
In the “World War II”, the style of pajamas has not changed. By the 1940s, pajamas advertisements still took durability as a selling point. The warmth of thick cotton robes has good warmth, so it has been welcomed by people for a long time. After the “World War II”, it has also been popular with the new -style pajamas for a while. More delicate pajamas are relatively rare during wartime, and only a few lucky people can wear it when they spend their honeymoon.
In the 1950s, conservative men still wore long pajamas.
Just as the air strikes in “World War I” affected the style of pajamas, after the “World War II”, Churchill’s pajamas also had a significant impact on pajamas fashion. Pajamas combine tops and pants together, so it has better warmth. For the first time in the 1940s, pajamas appeared in the product advertisement in 1940. Not only are they very comfortable to sleep, but the zipper design is also very easy to wear and take off. Citizens awakened by the air defense alert during the war can pull the zipper and escape quickly.
Modern cashmere pajamas are directly inherited from such pajamas. By the 1950s, the color of pajamas sets became rich and bold, and the game before bedtime became popular. The girls wearing colorful pajamas and pants are played with the movie “Thepajamagame” in 1954. However, it is not convenient to play these games in a nylon night dress, because this material’s clothes are very easy to generate static electricity. During this period, the popular nylon nightdress is not as colorful as pajamas, but is mainly pale purple, apricot yellow and ice blue.
Nylon night dress in the 1960s.
There is another disadvantage of nylon: too flammable. When wearing nylon pajamas, I accidentally touched the fire source. As a result, the fire caused a lot of fire. However, it is not only a type of artificial nylon fabric that is prone to fire. The cheap fabric born in the late 19th century -the early 20th century -cotton flavor is also an easy -to -fire material. Those families who want to save money will also wear cotton -flavored clothes for their children, which often leads to tragedy. In the age when the central heating is not popular, whether it is in front of the fireplace or by the stove, if you don’t pay attention, your corner or sleeves will be stained with flames, and the result is also catastrophic.
In the 1920s, cigarettes became popular, and clothing models wearing pajamas in the store often posed a cigarette posture, and the characters in the movie often hid in a happy place under the single. “Are you smoking in bed?” In a advertisement in the 1930s, a young man in a pajama sat on the pillow and asked with a cigarette roll. However, this is not a warning advertisement, because the young man said: “If you want to draw, just draw Will’s golden sparks …” The London Fire Association publishes a notice on the “Be careful fire” in the magazine to encourage encouragement Citizens choose underwear made of fire -resistant fabrics and claim that “the fire caused by fire in pajamas has killed 23 people.” While promoting the common sense of smoking in bed, the Fire Association is also trying to promote the mattress made by fire prevention fabrics. Manufacturers also strive to promote relatively non -flammable polyamide fiber bedding, hoping that these new fashion can bring consumers a safer life.
At present, most of the pajamas displayed in the store window are made of cotton and acrylic blended fabrics. There are various colors, prints and themes to choose from. Pajamas have become an indispensable part of people’s lives. No matter whether the ladies want to choose cute, elegant or sexy and seductive pajamas, there are no problems; many people still use large T -shirts to serve as pajamas. Although these T -shirts are similar to old -fashioned robes, the avant -garde on it is on it. The printing marks the changes in the times. In contrast, the men’s pajamas suit is not so exciting, and it is still no different from the old style of the 20th century. Of course, if you are willing, you can re -put a pajamas. Most people wear T -shirts and underwear when they sleep are elegant and cotton. Occasionally wearing silk pajamas has a sexual implication. In modern rooms, central heating, electric blankets and good warm quilt have been popular, which also gives those naked sleeping enthusiasts to sleep with peace of mind.
Morning clothes become a necessary clothing
The clothes worn in the bedroom are more complicated than the clothes wearing on the bed. Slippers, sleeping hats, bathrobes and morning clothes are all clothes that are only worn in the bedroom. The development history of the robe is actually closely related to our privacy concept.
Recently, people have been popular to share bed space and activities online, but beds are still considered a very private place. But this was not the case before. From the Middle Ages to the 19th century, the four pillars of the bed will be hung on the curtain. On the one hand, I want to show the wealth of the master’s family with the fabric of the bed curtain. Essence Until the middle of the 20th century, the culture of sharing the bedroom was still retained. For example, brothers and sisters were sleeping in the same bedroom -just the beds were separated. In this context, pajamas are of course a semi -public, and informal clothing that can be worn in front of relatives and servants.
In the past, servants could enter any room of the master’s house without even knocking on the door. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the owner would also choose to meet with friends or relatives in the bedroom or locker room, not to mention the hairdresser, tailoring and doctors to work in the owner’s bedroom. People in the past will be carefully dressed up before they go out to participate in the official event, so people from getting up to going out are not short. During this time, it is not possible to wear pajamas in this time -in all the above occasions, morning clothes have become a necessary kind of clothes to become necessary costumes.
Stills of the movie “King Kong” (2005).
For women who have lived in those hundreds of years, not dressing means that they have not wearing tights, or loose robes, tops, and do not apply powder and hair. Since the 19th century, women in the boudoir have begun to use tight short tops as a morning jacket. Of course, the exquisite ribbon decoration is also indispensable on the shirt, and it is often accompanied by flower -themed embroidery. Gradually, the morning clothes with long knees and fixed belts were also popular among the ladies.
By the end of the 19th century, women who were particular about life would prepare several clothes -morning clothes, breakfast tops, tea club women’s clothing, bathrobes -after getting up, eating breakfast, drinking tea and bathing. The flanged bathrobe was widely popular once it was born. But in 1899, “Ms.’s World” magazine launched an attack on the popular bathrobe fashion: “See how bad our current culture is! It is not easy for our ancestors to take a bath, but now every woman They all wear bathrobes as fashion. “The fashion editor of the magazine spurred the flanged warm bathrobe. She suggested that the ladies wear bright red silk bathrobes. Ugly hairstyle “.
At the beginning of the 20th century, pink bathrobes became the gospel of those ladies who wanted to pursue luxury and exotic ladies. It is said that this popular trend is influenced by the art exhibition of Russian artist Diaglev and his arranged Russian ballet -Dygletv not only brings Russia’s elegant and unique ballet and musicals to Europe, He also brought Russia’s aesthetic fashion. In the dance drama “Scheherazade” and “TheFirebird” (TheFirebird “, the color of the actress’s clothing is bright and decadent, giving the audience a new sense of Western European audiences. European women’s morning clothes soon began to imitate these pearly stage clothing. After that, the objects that everyone imitated continued to move eastward, and Japanese kimono suddenly became new fashion.
But Oriental clothing is not always satisfied with the aesthetics of Westerners. Most of the morning clothes in the middle class are made of flange, but they will only decorate some oriental elements. The Duke of Ratland County seemed to be very representative in that era. She often sleeps lazily, so she often wore various morning clothes. “She wore silk in the milk yellow kimono, and she was sleeping with lotus leaf. She was The skirt, with a hairbone similar to knitted vests on her head. The sleeves of the kimono are too long and often wrapped around her neck. “
The morning clothes in the 1930s were like women in that era, and gradually walked from the corner of the bedroom to the public. The clothing store promotes the morning clothes in your store to carry and wear it conveniently. You can easily put it into your suitcase and then take it out in the hotel. Whether on the deck of the cruise ship, in the car sleeper’s compartment or the hotel, the artificial robe will make people shine. Women who do not go out can wear more fashionable home clothes at home than in the morning clothes, just like wearing a robe of the 17th and 18th centuries. When wearing a home service, I was seen by my neighbors without any harm, and even went to the door, but only the extremely sloppy woman would wearing a home to go to the back garden.
In the early 1950s, Italian designer Elsa Chapareli brought her home service further. She launched a lining, the iconic “amazing pink” version. But compared to her morning clothes with a mink sweater, this is nothing. In the 1950s and 1960s, many women with economic constraints could only be wrapped in outdated, cheap nylon home uniforms, or a slightly warm light core velvet. In short, morning clothes have also become a kind of home service. These simple and comfortable private uniforms have become rare spiritual comfort in the bedroom.
This article is selected from “History of History: Our Dressed Story”. The small title is added by the editor, which is not owned by the original text. The pictures used in the article are illustrated illustrations except the stills. It has been authorized by the Publishing House.
Author 丨 [English] Lucy Adlington
Edge 丨 An Ye
Edit 丨 Wang Qing
Introduction Pride 丨 Liu Baoqing